I’m on a mission. While the most expensive restaurants in London are still packing them in, those in the middle price range are finding it harder to lure their traditional customers through the door. It’s not that those of us who eat out more than four times a week are dining out less often; it’s simply that with all the economists telling us we’re heading for doomsday we (well, some of us) are taking a little more care. So, for the time being at least, no more £150 lunches for two (not unless somebody else is paying) and premier cru wines are for special occasions. What I now seek out is exceptional food in affordable restaurants.

The Real Greek chain of restaurants (there are now five of them) was started by Theodore Kyriakou in 1999. His first, in Hoxton, then a rather unfashionable part of London, became a hit with the chattering classes and very soon Theodore opened a second, a third and so on. My most recent visit was to his restaurant in Paddington Street, set between Baker Street and London’s most civilized shopping street, Marylebone High Street (and home to Daunt Books, London’s most civilized bookshop).

I hadn’t made a reservation and when the Finn and I popped our heads around the door towards the end of lunch service on a rainy Wednesday I wasn’t expecting to be in luck. But in luck we were and were quickly seated at a reasonable table near the front of the restaurant.

We decided on a ‘Fish Sharer’ with Anatolian Gambas, Grilled Sardines (enormous) Taramosalata, Fava, Toboulough, a Greek salad and pitta. To that we added a portion of crispy cheese balls and some Dolmades (the best I’ve tasted outside Greece). That’s more than enough for any two normal appetites and the Finn told me that it was jolly healthy too. I’ve never been a fan of Greek wine but a couple of glasses of champagne won’t cost you much more and is much nicer to drink.

There are all the usual Greek dishes on the menu – Lamb, Chicken and Pork plus an exceptionally nice Bifteki (basically a hamburger with spring onions and served with yoghurt) and all are cooked and presented in a way that is a cut above the average. I don’t know whether it’s ‘real’ Greek food or not but it’s certainly delicious, and for around £30 a head including a couple of glasses of bubbly it’s certainly very good value.

One final note. They do take-away and produce a take-away menu. The problem is that it doesn’t give you the address, the telephone number or any other information you may need to make an order. So I’ll tell you. They take all the usual credit cards and their address and telephone number is below.

Richard Tobias

56 Paddington Street
London W1U 4HX

020 7486 0466