I admit, my initial reaction was one of somewhat guarded scepticism. Yes, the Raido brothers have somehow managed to create The Church Street Hotel, an extraordinarily romantic, fun and attractive Spanish-Americana-themed boutique hotel a few paces away from Camberwell Green. But could they work the same magic with their long-projected restaurant/tapas bar? And if so, would visitors and fellow Londoners perhaps unfamiliar with the intricacies of the South London bus system be adventurous enough to make their way to Camberwell to give it the support it deserves?

The answer is a resounding “sí, señor ” to both points. To say that Angels & Gypsies is the gem in Camberwell’s crown is a gross understatement – it has become, within a fairly short time of opening, THE destination eatery in all of South London, and it surely provides one of the best-value-for-money meals to be found anywhere within the M25.

The atmosphere is warm and completely unpretentious – beautifully exposed brickwork, stained glass, while ceramic tiles, chairs complete with religious motifs (a continuation of the hotel’s Catholic theme) and refreshingly friendly service.

Our party ordered 12 tapas dishes, and not one failed to deliver an extraordinary flavour. Especial favourites include the Pulpo a feira (literally melt-in-your-mouth delicious, none of this rubber which often goes by the name of octopus), House imported chorizo in Basque hard cider (the finest I’ve had outside Spain), lashings of Iberico and Serrano ham, Chicken hearts with rocket pesto (trust me on this one – it’s exceptional), Razor clams with garlic, olive oil & lemon, and Fennel & chicory with crushed seasalt and olive oil. The Jamon croquetas are also unmissable.

All this food (very greedy for 3 people, I must admit, but the whole menu was so packed with appetising dishes we couldn’t stop ordering) plus a dessert, 3 glasses of sherry and a very good bottle of wine came to not very much more than £100. A similar meal costs at least twice as much in the West End for food frankly half as good, as many of the dishes at Angels & Gypsies put such celebrated London tapas joints like Brindisa, Barrafina and Ibérica to shame.

A place of this quality is a real triumph for independent hoteliers – it’s run by people who are passionate about food and hospitality – that shows in every dish, and their passion for food – and for life – is infectious.

Coming out of the restaurant, Camberwell, a neighbourhood often euphemistically described as “up-and-coming,” seemed very “here-already” and a wonderful place to linger. Late on a cool, windy and drizzly Wednesday March evening, when some celebrated parts of the West End can resemble a ghost town, the bars and pubs around Camberwell Green were happening and vibrant. With the addition of this new restaurant, one imagines the locals are feeling rather contented with their lot about now.

I envy those discovering Angels and Gypsies for the first time, though remaining helplessly content as a repeat defender. You can bet I’ll be on a Camberwell-bound bus or taxi in the near future.